Carpet Python Care Guide

Carpet pythons are popular and rewarding reptiles to keep, known for their striking patterns and generally docile nature. This guide focuses on providing optimal care for your carpet python using information and resources relevant to Australian keepers!

Important Note: In Australia, keeping native reptiles, such as carpet pythons, requires appropriate licensing. Ensure you have the necessary permits from your state or territory wildlife authority before acquiring an animal.

Enclosure

A well-designed enclosure is crucial for your carpet python's health and well-being.

Size:
- Hatchlings/Juveniles: A tub or small vivarium (e.g., 30cm L x 20cm W x 15cm H) is suitable. We start our hatchlings in 5L Quadrant Tubs (30.5cm in length, 22.5cm in width, and 9.5cm in height)

Yearlings: A tub or small vivarium (e.g., 60cm L x 45cm W x 45cm H) is suitable.

Adults: A minimum of 120cm L x 60cm W x 60cm H is recommended for an adult, with larger being better. Remember, carpet pythons are semi-arboreal, so height is important for climbing. Ideally a 120cm L x 60cm W x 180cm T enclosure would be perfect. Or a 180cm L x 60cm W x 120cm T

Type: Glass, Melamine, PVC enclosures are all suitable. Ensure good ventilation.
Substrate:
- Good Options: Aspen shavings, cypress mulch, coco coir, Chipsi bedding, Natural soil (Ensure no fertilisers or insecticides) or specialised reptile bedding.
- Avoid: Pine or cedar shavings (toxic fumes), sand (ingestion risk), or anything with sharp sticks.
Enrichment:
- Climbing Branches: Provide sturdy branches (e.g., from gum trees, thoroughly cleaned and disinfected) for climbing and basking.
- Hides: Offer at least two hides – one on the cool side and one on the warm side – so your snake can feel secure. Half logs, caves, or even cardboard boxes work well. You can use plastic containers as well!
- Water Bowl: A heavy, shallow water bowl that cannot be easily tipped over. Ensure it's large enough for your snake to soak in.

Never use sticky tape in the enclosure. Use hot glue or superglue to fix things into the enclosure (If you want it permanent).

Enclosure Progression for Hatchling Carpet Pythons

While it might seem convenient, placing a hatchling carpet python directly into an adult-sized enclosure isn't recommended. This can cause significant stress for the baby snake. In a vast space, they often feel exposed and vulnerable, leading to refusal to feed or excessive hiding, which can negatively impact their growth and confidence.

Instead, a more gradual approach through appropriately sized enclosures is usually best:

Hatchling Stage (0-6 months):

Start with a small, secure setup like a 7.5L Sistema plastic tub. This provides a cozy, contained environment where they feel safe and can easily locate their food and hides. I mention this exact tub because the lid is very secure to ensure the hatchling doesn't squeeze out.

2. Juvenile Stage (6-18 months, or as needed):

As your snake grows, typically around 6 months old or when they start to outgrow the 7.5L tub, you'll move them into a slightly larger enclosure, such as a 14-liter tub (Also Sistema). This offers a bit more space for exploration without overwhelming them.

3. Sub-Adult/Pre-Adult Stage (Optional):

For some particularly shy or slower-growing individuals, an intermediate step, like a 60-liter tub (also Sistema, I promise I'm not endorsed, they are just good tubs!), might be beneficial before transitioning to their permanent adult home. This gives them more time to grow into a larger space comfortably.

4. Adult Enclosure:

Some confident juveniles may be ready for their full-sized adult enclosure after the 14L tub, provided the adult enclosure is heavily furnished with plenty of hides and climbing opportunities. The key is to ensure the snake feels secure, even in a larger space. If they seem stressed, revert to a smaller enclosure.

Enrichment:

Climbing Branches: Provide sturdy branches (e.g., from gum trees, thoroughly cleaned and disinfected) for climbing and basking.

Hides: Offer at least two hides – one on the cool side and one on the warm side – so your snake can feel secure. Half logs, caves, or even cardboard boxes work well. You can use plastic containers as well!

Water Bowl: A heavy, shallow water bowl that cannot be easily tipped over. Ensure it's large enough for your snake to soak in.

Fake Plants: Fake plants help make the snake more secure and can improve the overall look of the enclosure

Heating & Lighting

Maintaining an appropriate temperature gradient is vital for digestion and overall health.

Temperature Gradient:
- Basking Spot: 32-37°C
- Ambient Warm Side: 28-30°C
- Cool Side: 22-25°C
- Night-time: Temperatures can drop to around 20-22°C.

Heating Elements:
- Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs): Excellent for providing ambient heat without light, suitable for 24/7 use.
- Heat Mats/Pads: Can be used under a portion of the enclosure for belly heat, but always use with a thermostat.
- Basking Lamps: Incandescent or halogen bulbs can create a basking spot. Use with a dimmer or thermostat.
- ALWAYS use a thermostat: This is non-negotiable for all heating elements to prevent overheating and ensure stable temperatures. (Inkbird Wifi ITC-308 is the best thermostat I've used, and it's under $100 on Amazon!)

Lighting:
- UVB Lighting: While not strictly essential for nocturnal pythons, a low-level UVB (e.g., 5-7%) can be beneficial for overall health and natural behaviours. Provide a 12-hour on/off cycle.
- Natural Light: Ensure your snake has a day/night cycle, even if it's just ambient room light.
- Led Lights: You can also use LED lights to light up your enclosure. There are many options such as led bar strips, led floodlights, led tubs ect.

Australian Resources for Heating & Lighting:

Reptile Stores: The primary source for quality heating elements, thermostats, and UVB bulbs (e.g., URS, Exo Terra, Arcadia).
Electrical Retailers: For timers for lighting. (Arlec timers from Bunnings is what I use)
Bunnings: Great for sourcing timers and LED lights

Feeding

Carpet pythons are carnivorous and primarily eat rodents.

Prey Type: Frozen/thawed rodents (mice, rats) are highly recommended. Live feeding is illegal in QLD and unnecessary 99% of the time.

Feeding Schedule:
- Hatchlings/Juveniles: Once every 7-10 days.
- Adults: Once every 10-14 days, or less frequently depending on their size and metabolism. My adult males get fed a large/XL Rat every 2-3 months. My adult females are on a similar schedule unless I am planning on breeding.

Prey Size: Select food items that are roughly 1.5 times the diameter of your snake at its widest point

Thawing: Thaw frozen prey in warm water (Not boiling!). You can also thaw at room temperature but that will take longer. Do not microwave.

Feeding Method: Use tongs/forceps to offer prey to avoid accidental bites.

Signs of Hunger: Increased activity, "prowling" the enclosure. There are always exceptions, though. Sometimes increased pacing could be due to the need to mate or exploring their enclosure.

Looking for a reliable rodent supplier?

We proudly use and recommend Reptifauna for all our feeder rodents. To make feeding easy, the sizes we reference (e.g., fuzzy, hopper, weaner) match their standard size guide.

Use our exclusive code SHIKITO at their checkout to receive 10% off your order!

Australian Resources for Feeder Rodents:

Specialty Reptile Stores: Many stock a range of frozen mice and rats (Usually very overpriced)
Online Feeder Suppliers: Several Australian companies specialise in breeding and supplying frozen rodents for reptiles. Below are some Rodent suppliers in SEQ
- Reptifauna (https://reptifauna.com.au/ )
- Rat Ranch (https://www.facebook.com/RatRanchQld )

Buy Rodents!

Handling & Temperament

Carpet pythons are generally docile, but regular, gentle handling helps build trust.

Start Slow: Begin with short handling sessions (5-10 minutes) and gradually increase duration.
Support the Body: Always support your snake's full body, especially larger individuals.
Avoid Head Grabbing: Do not grab your snake by the head or tail.
Wash Hands: Always wash your hands before and after handling your snake and its enclosure items.
Reading Body Language: Learn to recognise signs of stress or aggression (e.g., hissing, striking, defensive posture). If your snake seems stressed, return it to its enclosure.

Health & Veterinary Care

Regular observation and prompt veterinary attention are crucial.

Signs of a Healthy Snake: Clear eyes, no nasal discharge, smooth skin, good muscle tone, eating consistently, alert and active.
Common Health Issues:
- Respiratory Infections (RIs): Open-mouth breathing, bubbles from nose/mouth, wheezing.
- Mites: Small black or red specks on the snake's body or in the water.
- Shedding Problems: Retained eye caps or pieces of shed skin.
- Digestive Issues: Regurgitation, abnormal faeces.
Veterinary Care: Find a veterinarian experienced in reptile medicine before you need one. Regular check-ups are recommended.

Australian Resources for Reptile Veterinary Care:

Queensland Recommendation: For keepers in South East Queensland, Unusual Pet Vets (with clinics in areas like Jindalee and Chermside) are highly regarded and specialize in exotic and reptile medicine.

Local Reptile Keepers/Forums: Ask for recommendations in Australian reptile keeping groups on social media or forums.

Thank you for reading the Carpet Python Care Guide!

If you have any questions feel free to message us on Facebook or email us on shikitoscritters@gmail.com

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